I wish I had an old beat up cap I could cut up and see what is inside. The lock itself, where you put the key, and the hole where that cover pivot pin is are the only openings on the outside of the cap. But if you drill a hole from the inside, in that groove between the gasket and the edge of the cap, and stop drilling when you break through the back side, how does the air get in? The key slot itself does not have an automatic cover like I thought, but there is that really big pivoting cover you have to move to get the key in the lock and move back to cover the lock. I'm pretty sure the cap is not solid metal, it's not heavy enough to be. There appears to be a hollow space between the inner part of the cap and the outer part. sorry bout the fuzzy pics, crappy camera. There is about a 1/8" groove between the edge of the gasket and the edge of the cap. its a no leak check valve vent so no gas can leak out. Sold by AiWa and ships from Amazon Fulfillment.
The rubber gasket is very hard and not flexible. This item:2 x One Way Fuel Tank Cap Vent Breather Replacement for ATV Motorcycle Dirt Bike RED 6.99 Only 18 left in stock - order soon. I have my 2016 Rebel gas cap in my hands right now. Maybe an inline check valve is best.OK, first I did not mean to offend anyone, but from pictures in several threads here, people have drilled holes in many different places where the shouldn't have. The downside is accessing the inside of the tank to secure the valve might be a challenge. Alternatively, the THV 45 or TRV 45 two ball check valves from Newton Equipment look like they might be just the ticket as they're designed specifically for motorcycle applications. Maybe this in tank check valve would work.īut I'm not sure how well they'll work for my small motorcycle tank as they're meant for fuel cells in race cars with large fill plates. Looking at the Fuel Safe Catalog it's hard to tell what might work best for me. Which leads me to the wonderful world of check valves, vent valves and discriminator valves. So I'm already thinking about replacing the fragile vent tube with a more secure fitting from Aeroquip or maybe the Yamaha TZ tank vent. I know I could use a quick disconnect or mount the bottle to the fairing probe that remains attached to the bike but I'm not sure this is my best option.Īlso, over the years of building this bike, the fragile aluminum vent tube has somehow gotten kinked and I'd like something more robust. Similarly, I could route the hose to a small catch can or bottle mounted behind the fairing but that's just another thing I'd have to deal with each time I take the bodywork on and off. My first thought was to coil a length of hose and attach it to the inside of the fairing like this early TZ250.īut I don't really like this look and you still have the issue of containment should the fuel volume exceed the capacity of the hose. But now that I think about it more perhaps something with better containment might be a better option than an open hose that dumps fuel onto my front tire. I had originally planned to attach a short section of hose and route the vent tube through the center of the steering stem. The cap gasket looks fine and the tank sealing surface looks OK, too.
Now what fittings do I need to connect the vents Im hoping someone can tell me exactly what. Mario said: Besides hearing can you feel the air leak, perhaps your cap is not on tight, you may have some grime or dirt on the cap, preventing it from making a good seal, how long has this been going on. Right now there is a simple 90° vent tube sprouting from the top of the tank. Greetings all, So I finally got a new fuel tank for the 6. I've got an aftermarket aluminum tank for my CB350 racer. I'm looking for suggestions on what to do with my fuel tank vent.
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